Staten Island
I finally closed the book on “The Other New York”, as defined by me, with a ride to Staten Island. Born and raised in NY I have never visited its waterfront nor any other part for that matter. Used more as a stepping stone to New Jersey, points South and points West I never felt the need too visit New York’s other “bedroom borough”. Yesterday I was pleasantly surprised as Staten Island became one of my best rides.
Starting once again, on an absolutely beautiful day, at Astoria Park, I descended the Queens waterfront where I picked up the East River Ferry to 11 Wall St. Short ride to the Staten Island Ferry Terminal. A little on the Staten Island Ferry as I cannot remember the last time I rode it. A little grungy, high on security as a “fido sniffdown” of your water bottle on the bike and your pack, is required before boarding. Boarding and disembarking is quick and efficient however and the boat is relatively fast. ………..and its free!!! Upon arriving at St George I decided to visit the Richmond County Bank Stadium where the Staten Island Yankees play …and where they are building the world’s largest Ferris Wheel right next to the ferry terminal. The Stadium was purposely built to provide stunning vistas of lower Manhattan from center field ….and it was indeed stunning.
My real goal was to ride up Bay St to South and Midland Beaches and the FDR boardwalk and trail. Prior to reaching the boardwalk I was pleasantly surprised again with the Gateway National Park, Fort Wadsworth and the true “star of the day” emerged……the Great Bridge in all its majesty rose up from the earth. I sensed a tilt in its massive spans, almost as if it was being affected by the Earths curvature. The behemoths gaze would never leave me for the rest of the day. No matter where I went ….to the farthest reaches of a trail that seemed endless, I would stop and turn and there she was. I was so obsessed with photographing her from every angle that I almost lost track of time as the East River Ferry shuts down at 8 and I had a long ride back to the SI Ferry terminal first. I photographed her on the way and probably took the same shots on the way back. I found it difficult to edit down to a relevant display for this post. From the lofty hills of Bay St and The Gateway Park the Staten Island views of the Verrazzano Narrows are far more spectacular.
You also get a better perspective of the upper and lower NY bays, the Narrows, NY Harbor and the entrance to the Hudson from the “heights” of the park. From the Battles of Brooklyn using Wadsworth as a staging area by the British to the first Dutch entering the Upper Bay ….motivated to exclaim …..”Oh this is Eden!” exulted the Dutch poet Jacob Steendam. A “terrestrial Canaan” echoed the essayist Daniel Denton, “where the land floweth with milk and honey”. Initially it was the sweetness of the air that bewitched explorers and travelers. Nowhere else in North America would the beauty and abundance of the physical environment evoke such consistently extravagant praise. Boats crossing the bay were escorted by schools of playful whales, seals and porpoises. Twelve-inch oysters and six foot lobsters crowded offshore waters, and so many fish thrived in streams and ponds that they could be taken by hand". …..Chapter 1 First Impressions …”Gotham” A History of New York City to 1898.
In the end Staten Islands waterfront and beaches, boardwalks and bike trails (South and Midland) are equal to their counterparts in NY and Long Island and it can be said far more interesting in watching the worlds shipping pass through the Narrows and under the “Great Bridge”.